{"id":2243,"date":"2025-06-29T14:25:19","date_gmt":"2025-06-29T21:25:19","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/?p=2243"},"modified":"2026-03-30T19:58:55","modified_gmt":"2026-03-31T02:58:55","slug":"belgium-june-29-waterloo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/?p=2243","title":{"rendered":"Belgium, June 29: Waterloo"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>After spending all day Saturday in a group, on Sunday I struck out on my own\u2026<\/p>\n<p>\u2026to the laundromat. I had, after all, been in Europe for 2 weeks at this point with one carry-on sized suitcase.<\/p>\n<p>The process was reasonably well documented, and another very nice customer was at pains to make sure I understood how everything worked.\u00a0 There was a vending machine for soap, and the washing machines were all controlled from a central terminal, although oddly, the dryers were not.<\/p>\n<p>Laundry accomplished, I headed back to the hotel to drop off my clothes and make a plan to do some sightseeing.\u00a0 I needed to get to the Nivelles train station, and since the next bus wasn\u2019t for a while, I decided to just walk.\u00a0 This was going to turn out to be a theme for the day.<\/p>\n<p>Just one stop down the train tracks from Nivelles is Brain-L\u2019Alleud, where the historic battle of Waterloo took place.\u00a0 (Not to be confused with the neighboring town of Waterloo, where the historic battle of Waterloo did not take place.)\u00a0 Waterloo represented the last decisive defeat of Napoleon Bonaparte, and is part of why many of us are stuck using inches and pounds to this very day.<\/p>\n<p>After a long, sweaty walk to the train station, I bought my train ticket to Brain-L\u2019Alleud and boarded my train, which looked suspiciously like a bus.\u00a0 Just a few weeks prior, I took the Hamilton Street Railway and an Air Canada flight in Hamilton, Ontario, both of which looked a lot like busses.\u00a0 And now this Belgian train, which also appeared to be a bus.<\/p>\n<p>When the \u201ctrain\u201d arrived in Brain-L\u2019Alleud, I first got lunch at a really excellent little Syrian place next to the station.\u00a0 Seriously, if you ever go there, this is where you want to have lunch \u2013 some of the best schwarma I\u2019ve ever had.<\/p>\n<p>Then I looked at the bus schedule, realized the next bus to the battlefield wasn\u2019t for a while, and decided to walk.\u00a0 This MAY have been a poor choice.\u00a0 It was, after all, about 27 (I mean 80 \u2013 THANKS NAPOLEON) degrees out.\u00a0 After another long, sweaty walk, I arrived at the battlefield.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/20250629_132411.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-2244\" src=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/20250629_132411.jpg\" alt=\"Cannon at Waterloo\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/20250629_132411.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/20250629_132411-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/20250629_132411-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/20250629_132411-400x300.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Only to discover that the once-a-year reenactment of the battle had taken place that morning, and I had missed it.\u00a0 Then again, I REALLY needed laundry.<\/p>\n<p>There\u2019s a few different things to see at Waterloo.\u00a0 The most obvious from a distance is the Mound of the Lion.\u00a0 It is a huge hill that dominates the landscape of the battlefield, and commemorates the wounding of William II of Orange, arguably maybe the fifth most important commander present at the battle. Maybe.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/20250629_151511-rotated.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-2245\" src=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/20250629_151511-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"Mound of the Lion\" width=\"306\" height=\"406\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Or maybe it commemorates the battle more generally.\u00a0 Given its scale, that\u2019s the more charitable reading.\u00a0 Heck of a view form the top, anyway.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/20250629_145659.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-2246\" src=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/20250629_145659.jpg\" alt=\"Waterloo battlefield\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/20250629_145659.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/20250629_145659-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/20250629_145659-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/20250629_145659-400x300.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>There\u2019s also a very well executed museum that talks at length about the history of the battle, the uniforms, the weapons, the commanders, and very little about why Napoleon was not actually a very nice man.\u00a0 (Spoiler: he wasn\u2019t.)<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/20250629_140459-rotated.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-2247\" src=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/20250629_140459-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"Napoleon\" width=\"289\" height=\"383\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>There&#8217;s also a display of Napoleonic scenes recreated in Lego, which is pretty neat.\u00a0 Here&#8217;s the retreat from Moscow:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/20250629_144012.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-2248\" src=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/20250629_144012.jpg\" alt=\"Napoleonic legos\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/20250629_144012.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/20250629_144012-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/20250629_144012-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/20250629_144012-400x300.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Next to the Big Hill of the Moderately Important Guy who Lived Thirty Four More Years After The Battle is a panorama, a kind of nineteenth century VR installation where you stand inside a 360 degree painting and see the battle illustrated all around you.\u00a0 That was also pretty neat.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/20250629_144855.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-2249\" src=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/20250629_144855.jpg\" alt=\"Waterloo panorama\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/20250629_144855.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/20250629_144855-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/20250629_144855-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/20250629_144855-400x300.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>But honestly, the most impressive thing was just walking a few hot and sweaty kilometers around the battlefield and appreciating the importance of this particular bit of Belgian farmland to the history of the world.\u00a0 Counterfactuals are always a bit iffy, but there\u2019s one small gate in the wall of one small farmhouse at one end of the battle line that could potentially have changed the course of everything if it had been successfully breached. (as it almost was.)<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/20250629_161002-rotated.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-2250\" src=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/20250629_161002-rotated.jpg\" alt=\"Hougoumont gate\" width=\"398\" height=\"528\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>It was also a hoot walking around surrounded by all the reenactors, who were largely still there after their morning\u2019s exertions, and also largely still in costume.\u00a0 Made it even easier to visualize being back in 1815, except for the bit where they were also largely tailgating next to their cars at this point.<\/p>\n<p>At the end of my visit, I was at the other end of the battlefield from the bus stop, so I decided to just go ahead and walk back to the bus station.\u00a0 I blame heat exhaustion at this point from preventing me from doing something dumb like this much more walking in the sun.<\/p>\n<p>At least I didn\u2019t walk back to my hotel from the train station in Nivelles.\u00a0 No, instead of that I (checks notes)\u2026 oh wait, no, I did do that.\u00a0 It was a long day.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>After spending all day Saturday in a group, on Sunday I struck out on my own\u2026 \u2026to the laundromat. I had, after all, been in Europe for 2 weeks at this point with one carry-on sized suitcase. The process was &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/?p=2243\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":2244,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2243","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-belgium"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2243","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2243"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2243\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2824,"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2243\/revisions\/2824"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/2244"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2243"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2243"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2243"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}