{"id":1617,"date":"2023-08-16T17:59:58","date_gmt":"2023-08-17T00:59:58","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/?p=1617"},"modified":"2023-09-02T21:40:31","modified_gmt":"2023-09-03T04:40:31","slug":"japan-day-2-hiroshima","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/?p=1617","title":{"rendered":"Japan, Day 2: Hiroshima"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Even though we would have liked to spend a bit more time in Osaka due to all the closures on our first day, hotel reservations are a harsh mistress, so off we went to catch our first Shinkansen.<\/p>\n<p>Also known as &#8220;bullet trains,&#8221; travel on the present Shinkansen network travels at speeds up to 320 km\/hr. (For our readers still on the imperial system, that&#8217;s nearly forty thousand furlongs per day!) And this network has been around for nearly twice as long as The Simpsons, that&#8217;s how old it is.<\/p>\n<p>It&#8217;s a clich\u00e9 to say that we need this in North America, but dear lord do we need this in North America.\u00a0 Hiroshima is roughly the same distance from Osaka as New York City is from Baltimore, but we made the trip in an hour and a half. Just enough time to share a tasty Inari bento, but not enough time to remember to take a picture of it before we ate it.\u00a0 Here&#8217;s the wrapper, anyway.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230816_083106-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-1618 \" src=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230816_083106-scaled-e1693702510515-1024x1019.jpg\" alt=\"Bento wrapper\" width=\"429\" height=\"427\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230816_083106-scaled-e1693702510515-1024x1019.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230816_083106-scaled-e1693702510515-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230816_083106-scaled-e1693702510515-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230816_083106-scaled-e1693702510515-768x764.jpg 768w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230816_083106-scaled-e1693702510515-302x300.jpg 302w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230816_083106-scaled-e1693702510515.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 429px) 100vw, 429px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Arriving in Hiroshima, we encountered the weather that would more or less define the rest of the trip. Sunny, humid, and temperatures in the low 300s. (Kelvin. Around the mid 90s F.) It was hot.<\/p>\n<p>For our first stop, we went to the Shukkein Garden. (I mean, our FIRST stop was the nearest combini for cold drinks.\u00a0 This can probably be assumed between every stop going forward for the rest of the trip.) The Shukkein roughly translates as &#8220;shrunken scenery.&#8221;\u00a0 It&#8217;s a whole Japan in miniature &#8211; small mountains, small bridges, small rivers. Like the full sized version, it&#8217;s gorgeous.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230816_110821.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-large wp-image-1620\" src=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230816_110821-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"Shukkein Garden\" width=\"584\" height=\"329\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230816_110821-1024x576.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230816_110821-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230816_110821-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230816_110821-500x281.jpg 500w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230816_110821.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 584px) 100vw, 584px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230816_111553-rotated.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-1621\" src=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230816_111553-576x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Shukkein Garden\" width=\"344\" height=\"598\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230816_112853.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-large wp-image-1622\" src=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230816_112853-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"Shukkein Garden\" width=\"584\" height=\"329\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230816_112853-1024x576.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230816_112853-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230816_112853-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230816_112853-500x281.jpg 500w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230816_112853.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 584px) 100vw, 584px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>We then took a tourist bus downtown, and went looking for lunch.\u00a0 By this point, we were seriously overheated, so we searched for &#8220;cold noodles near me&#8221;, and found a delightful lunch of cold udon and tempura. (Once again, with half of the food eaten before I remembered to take a picture.)<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/2023-08-16-13.15.51-copy-e1693703520821.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-1623 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/2023-08-16-13.15.51-copy-e1693703520821-1024x711.jpg\" alt=\"Noodles\" width=\"584\" height=\"405\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/2023-08-16-13.15.51-copy-e1693703520821-1024x711.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/2023-08-16-13.15.51-copy-e1693703520821-300x208.jpg 300w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/2023-08-16-13.15.51-copy-e1693703520821-768x533.jpg 768w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/2023-08-16-13.15.51-copy-e1693703520821-432x300.jpg 432w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/2023-08-16-13.15.51-copy-e1693703520821.jpg 1132w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 584px) 100vw, 584px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>And now to be completely serious. While Hiroshima is a perfectly nice city, there&#8217;s obviously one particular reason to go there.<br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/2023-08-16-12.25.38-copy.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-large wp-image-1625\" src=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/2023-08-16-12.25.38-copy-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Atomic Bomb Dome\" width=\"584\" height=\"779\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/2023-08-16-12.25.38-copy-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/2023-08-16-12.25.38-copy-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/2023-08-16-12.25.38-copy.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 584px) 100vw, 584px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1626\" style=\"width: 586px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230816_122807-rotated.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1626\" class=\"size-large wp-image-1626\" src=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230816_122807-576x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"576\" height=\"1024\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230816_122807-576x1024.jpg 576w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230816_122807-169x300.jpg 169w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230816_122807-rotated.jpg 675w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 576px) 100vw, 576px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1626\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">This monument is on a quiet backstreet, and shows the exact centroid of the bomb blast. It&#8217;s much less well known than some of the other sites.<\/p><\/div>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230816_165459.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-large wp-image-1627\" src=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230816_165459-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"Peace Memorial Museum\" width=\"584\" height=\"329\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230816_165459-1024x576.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230816_165459-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230816_165459-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230816_165459-500x281.jpg 500w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230816_165459.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 584px) 100vw, 584px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>We didn&#8217;t take a lot of pictures here.\u00a0 We didn&#8217;t take ANY pictures inside the museum, as they aren&#8217;t allowed, and it would have felt incredibly disrespectful to do so even if it had been.<\/p>\n<p>The museum is deeply affecting.\u00a0 It is entirely focused on the horrific effects of this single nuclear weapon. A choice could have been made to provide more context around the broader war, or the decision process to use the weapon, but instead the choice is to focus the entire attention of the viewer on WHY these weapons are so uniquely unconscionable.<\/p>\n<p>Given the present level of political discourse in BOTH countries which control the bulk of the world&#8217;s stockpile&#8230; I&#8217;m not optimistic, frankly.\u00a0 I fervently hope we continue to avoid their use.\u00a0 But I&#8217;m frankly shocked we got through the Trump years, and Trump or no, there&#8217;s more like him on the horizon, and far too many jingoists under his banner.\u00a0 Time will tell.<\/p>\n<p>After that sobering afternoon, we returned to our AirBnB, which had the unique feature of a lock that we had to open using an app.\u00a0 Which was largely in Japanese.\u00a0 But amazingly, it worked using the link the host had texted us the night before.<\/p>\n<p>For our one dinner in Hiroshima, we had the local specialty of okonomiyaki, which is a savory noodle pancake that literally translates as &#8220;however you like it.&#8221; There&#8217;s an okonomiyaki palace downtown which has roughly 8 restaurants on each of 3 floors, all specializing in the dish.\u00a0 You sit around a hot griddle (perfect in sweltering temperatures) and the cook makes yours right in front of you.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230816_185322.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-large wp-image-1628\" src=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230816_185322-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"Okonomiyaki being made\" width=\"584\" height=\"329\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230816_185322-1024x576.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230816_185322-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230816_185322-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230816_185322-500x281.jpg 500w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230816_185322.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 584px) 100vw, 584px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230816_190744-rotated.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone  wp-image-1629\" src=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/08\/20230816_190744-576x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Okonomiyaki\" width=\"342\" height=\"602\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>A happy end to a thoughtful day.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Even though we would have liked to spend a bit more time in Osaka due to all the closures on our first day, hotel reservations are a harsh mistress, so off we went to catch our first Shinkansen. Also known &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/?p=1617\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":1622,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[8],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1617","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-japan"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1617","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1617"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1617\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1630,"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1617\/revisions\/1630"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/1622"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1617"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1617"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1617"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}