{"id":1602,"date":"2023-08-15T11:06:39","date_gmt":"2023-08-15T18:06:39","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/?p=1602"},"modified":"2023-09-02T11:22:59","modified_gmt":"2023-09-02T18:22:59","slug":"japan-day-1-osaka-interrupted","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/?p=1602","title":{"rendered":"Japan, Day 1: Osaka, Interrupted"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Remember the typhoon?\u00a0 There was a typhoon.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">We had one day in Osaka, and well &#8211; most of the city shut down.\u00a0 We emerged from the underground entrance of our hotel into what had been an absolute madhouse of people and commerce the night before to find\u2026 nothing.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230815_082426-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-large wp-image-1603\" src=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230815_082426-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"Osaka train station, deserted\" width=\"584\" height=\"329\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230815_082426-1024x576.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230815_082426-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230815_082426-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230815_082426-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230815_082426-2048x1152.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230815_082426-500x281.jpg 500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 584px) 100vw, 584px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Osaka station was deserted.\u00a0 Every one of the gazillion small shops was shuttered. It was incredibly surreal.\u00a0 We had a breakfast of onigiri, yogurt, and some pastries from a convenience store (\u201ccombini\u201d in Japan) because it was literally the only thing open.\u00a0 All of the tourist attractions we had planned to see, including the indoor ones like the aquarium, were closed.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230815_084702-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-large wp-image-1605\" src=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230815_084702-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"584\" height=\"329\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230815_084702-1024x576.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230815_084702-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230815_084702-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230815_084702-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230815_084702-2048x1152.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230815_084702-500x281.jpg 500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 584px) 100vw, 584px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">New plan: let\u2019s go find an arcade and spend some time there. Arcades in Japan are cool, right?<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Arcade is closed.\u00a0 We wandered around a large ridiculous store called \u201cDon Quixote\u201d for a bit.\u00a0 Don Quixote is hard to explain.\u00a0 Did you ever need to buy whisky, earbuds, sex toys, and a watercolour set in the same trip? Don Quixote has you covered.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">We decided to go downtown on the subway and see what WAS open. Turns out the famous covered shopping street, Kurumon, was open.\u00a0 In fact, since it was still POURING rain (typhoon, remember?) the slightly smaller absolute quantity of tourists was packed into a MUCH smaller area, so it was quite packed. Or so we thought at the time.\u00a0 We actually had no idea what packed was going to look like later in the trip.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230815_120325-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-1606\" src=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230815_120325-576x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Kurumon market\" width=\"445\" height=\"784\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Half the reason to come to Japan is for the food, so lets get started.\u00a0 On our graze up and down the street, we managed to have the largest oyster either of us had ever consumed, some octopus on a stick and grilled scallops. (As will become apparent, we frequently started eating BEFORE remembering to photograph our food on this trip.)<\/span><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230815_111925-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-1608 \" src=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230815_111925-scaled-e1693678086646-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"Oysters\" width=\"353\" height=\"202\" \/><\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/2023-08-15-11.40.35-copy-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone  wp-image-1609\" src=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/2023-08-15-11.40.35-copy-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Scallops and octopus\" width=\"324\" height=\"430\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">One thing that took some getting used to is that you don\u2019t eat while walking in Japan.\u00a0 If you buy an oyster, you stand in front of the shop that sold it to you, and you eat it there.\u00a0 No matter how crowded the shopping streets get, you still pack in to wherever you bought the food to eat it.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">In our continuing quest to find places we could reach while staying dry, we went to an old school coffee shop for some cake, our first of many shrines to find a geocache, some more covered shopping streets near Dotonbori (frozen fruit on a stick acquired), and finally bought a crappy plastic umbrella which we would haul around for the remainder of our trip.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/2023-08-15-12.26.50-copy-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone  wp-image-1610\" src=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/2023-08-15-12.26.50-copy-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Cake\" width=\"294\" height=\"222\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/2023-08-15-12.26.50-copy-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/2023-08-15-12.26.50-copy-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/2023-08-15-12.26.50-copy-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/2023-08-15-12.26.50-copy-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/2023-08-15-12.26.50-copy-scaled.jpg 1600w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/2023-08-15-12.26.50-copy-400x300.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 294px) 100vw, 294px\" \/><\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/2023-08-15-14.43.02-copy-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone  wp-image-1611\" src=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/2023-08-15-14.43.02-copy-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Frozen fruit on a stick\" width=\"227\" height=\"301\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Dotonbori, by the way, is the famous canal district in Osaka that everyone takes pictures of.\u00a0 For good reason &#8211; it&#8217;s got some great signs.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/2023-08-15-12.56.40-copy-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone  wp-image-1612\" src=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/2023-08-15-12.56.40-copy-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Signs near Dotonbori\" width=\"348\" height=\"263\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nThe area of the actual canal itself was a bit on the soggy side.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230815_171434-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-large wp-image-1613\" src=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230815_171434-1024x576.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"584\" height=\"329\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230815_171434-1024x576.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230815_171434-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230815_171434-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230815_171434-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230815_171434-2048x1152.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230815_171434-500x281.jpg 500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 584px) 100vw, 584px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The one other thing we were fairly sure we could check out despite the conditions was Shinsekai, a neighborhood that is to Dotonbori as the old Vegas strip is to the new one.\u00a0 Slightly seedier, but in a way that makes it in many respects cooler.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/2023-08-15-16.37.36-copy-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-large wp-image-1614\" src=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/2023-08-15-16.37.36-copy-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Shop in Shinsekai neighborhood\" width=\"584\" height=\"438\" srcset=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/2023-08-15-16.37.36-copy-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/2023-08-15-16.37.36-copy-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/2023-08-15-16.37.36-copy-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/2023-08-15-16.37.36-copy-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/2023-08-15-16.37.36-copy-scaled.jpg 1600w, https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/2023-08-15-16.37.36-copy-400x300.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 584px) 100vw, 584px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">We had takoyaki sitting on a oil drum in a puddle, and it was the best takoyaki we\u2019d ever had.\u00a0 Burn your mouth hot and everything.<\/span><\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1615\" style=\"width: 353px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230815_164349-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1615\" class=\"wp-image-1615\" src=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/20230815_164349-707x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Tsutenkaku tower\" width=\"343\" height=\"494\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1615\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tsutenkaku tower. Also note the crappy, hastily purchased umbrella.<\/p><\/div>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">After going back to Dotonbori to see if the area around the canal would be a little drier by now for sightseeing (it wasn\u2019t) and attempting to go to an arcade (still not open), we gave up and went back to our hotel to see if we could find some Osaka style okonomiyaki.\u00a0 (We didn\u2019t). Eventually we ended up at a chain izakaya that was perfectly serviceable, and turned out to be one of the largest restaurants we would eat in for the entire trip. \u00a0 We ate crispy chicken and gyoza next to some boisterous Italians and went back to our room to try again the next day.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">And that was our Osaka experience.\u00a0 Memorable? Yes. Possibly not the precise set of memories we would have chosen, but definitely memorable.<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Remember the typhoon?\u00a0 There was a typhoon. We had one day in Osaka, and well &#8211; most of the city shut down.\u00a0 We emerged from the underground entrance of our hotel into what had been an absolute madhouse of people &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/?p=1602\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":1603,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[8],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1602","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-japan"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1602","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1602"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1602\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1616,"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1602\/revisions\/1616"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/1603"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1602"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1602"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fnerk.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1602"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}